Monte Verde and the Peopling of the Americas: an abandoned potential World Heritage site made joyful with birdsong


I had visited the site of Monte Verde in southern Chile once before, in 2011. On the 7th January 2024, I drove there again (from Puerto Montt) to see what has changed. A formerly attractive wooden house at the Monte Verde I site is now a decrepit ruin. There are some helpful information boards (kudos to whoever made these), now fading badly and with Monte Verde I and II mislabelled. A rudimentary archaeological theme park nearby appears to be entirely abandoned. This is a sad state of affairs for such an important site.

Despite all the signs of abandonment and neglect, the place is a joy to visit for the vivid music of the varied birdsong. There were southern lapwings, buff-necked ibises, striped woodpeckers, a snipe, grasslands yellow finch, rufous collared sparrows, austral blackbirds, and Chilean swallows. Also, not far from the site is a line of burrowing owl colonies with their alert to dozy, but always utterly charming sentries, a complete delight to see.

The rigorous archaeological work here overturned the long held view that the Americas were first populated by the Clovis Culture about 13000 years ago. 


Cover of the Dillehay volume on Monte Verde


Reviewers' comments indicating the importance of the work

It is the subject of a series of papers and is among the most significant of archaeological sites in the Americas. It is noted on the UNESCO tentative list. Its state of abandonment therefore seems astonishing. The land appears to be under private ownership given the presence of cows wandering freely. Given that Monte Verde is only a half hour drive from Puerto Montt, a grimy and unlovely industrial port city, there would seem to be a fantastic opportunity for the city to elevate its current lowly cultural status by embracing the Monte Verde story. The city of Osorno has given an idea as to how this might be done, with the establishment of the Parque Pleistocénico de Osorno and Museo del Pleistoceno de Osorno, complete with gomphothere models, inspired by the work of Mario Pino and colleagues at the Pilauco Bajo site.


The Monte Verde site in its larger context, 60 km scale at lower left. The river to the west is the Maullin and the marine bay to the east is the Seno de Reloncavi. Eight of the nearby volcanoes are labelled.


Maps showing context and shoreline at about 15000 years ago, from Dillehay et al. (2008)




A pair of buff-necked ibises, also known as bandurrias, wandering the site.

A striped woodpecker at Monte Verde.



Charming burrowing owls not far from Monte Verde.


Aerial view of the Chinchihuapi Creek and archaeological sites.





References


Dillehay et al. 2008. Monte Verde: Seaweed, Food, Medicine, and the Peopling of South America. Science, 320, 784-786.

Pino, M. et al. 2013. The late Pleistocene Pilauco site, Osorno, south-central Chile. Quaternary International, 299, 3-12



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