Traditional Art of Gabon: Brass Adornments of the Fang
"Men, women, and children wear necklaces of glass beads, the hoofs of very small antelope, and certain forest beans, are strung and worn around the neck. Bristles from the tail of an elephant are used for the same purpose. When in mournilng, a necklace is made from bleached grass plaited; it is worn by both sexes. A very favourite fetish charm to suspend from a necklace is a leopard tooth. I have frequently seen the two tusks of a wild boar or 'Wart hog' worn around the neck as an ornament and have succeeded in bringing specimens worn mostly by the women."
A large example with fine and distinctive ornament is shown below.
Heavy brass akuré neck collar from northern Gabon (RS.AF34). Diameter is approximately 15 cm, but the original shape has been deformed on removal of the collar. Tessmann (1913) Abb. 222a. Verzierungen auf Messinghalsringen (see below) shows a selection of designs observed on these collars. There is not an exact match for the design seen on this example.
Tessmann's illustration shows the variety of designs all within a common framework of central rectangular to square or trapezoidal panels with inward directed arcs on each side flanked by side panels with variations on simple themes of cross-hatching, rectangles and triangles. These side panels are flanked by outward directed arcs.
Fernand Grébert later illustrated various Fang collars and bracelets. He was based in Gabon between 1913 and 1931 on behalf of the Evangelical Missionary Society of Paris and brought back many objects for sale to museums. Grébert (1922) gave the following account:
"The elegant women of the interior, who keep the costumes of the past, wear a very small loincloth and ornaments that they never take off: the bead belt under the loincloth, bracelets of thick brass threads above or below the biceps, calf, ankle, wrist; such that the muscles end up being completely deformed. Around the neck, a full necklace, weighing one kilo, decorated with designs and closed with a hammer on the woman's neck. The skin, under these copper ornaments, turns green. One or more chains of beads pass from the neck to the ears and into the nostrils. On the head, helmets of beads or buttons, more or less intertwined with the hair, in the form of crests, headbands, pendants. In the past, men wore feathers, as the Gabonese stamp still indicates. They filed their teeth into sharp points and passed a porcupine quill through their noses."
This description matches the observations of Bennett (1899) in all regards (down to the porcupine quills) with the exception of the heavy necklaces (highlighted in bold above).
Folio 301 in Grébert’s second album depicts a man wearing an akuré, while the nearby woman is shown wearing replacement necklaces made out of liana vines. Grébert specifies in the caption: "Elegance best: Col et brassard en liane (en replacement des colliers en laiton, revenues)" - “in replacement of the brass necklaces.” She doesn't look very happy about it.
Another distinctive style of brass neck collar features protruding flanges as in the famous image below.
Origins of the Akuré
A clue to the origins of the akuré is afforded by a specimen in the Liverpool World Museum, donated in 1883 by the British trader J.G.C. Harrison (Kingdon 2015) and made from English brass rods. This example differs from the early 20th century heavy pieces in having a square section, far simpler ornament and a much lighter design. Nonetheless, the basic decorative components of a central rectangular panel flanked by two areas of cross-hatched incisions are visible.
Conclusions
It is intriguing that the heavy neck collars so strongly associated with traditional Fang culture (Tessman 1913, Grébert 1922, Perrois & Sierra Delage 1990) are not mentioned by 19th century observers. They appear to be largely an early 20th century development. A fascinating 19th century precursor shows an early version of the classic 20th century akuré ornament in the form of a square-sectioned penannular torque with central design consisting of a rectangular field with two inwardly curved indentations flanked by two fields of simple cross-hatching.
References
De Brazza, S. 1878. Trois explorations effectuées dans l'Quest Africain (1876-1885).
De Brazza, S. 1888. Voyages dans l'Ouest Africain (1875-1887). Le Tour du Monde, Nouveau Journal des Voyages. Deuxième Semestre. Libraire Hachette, Paris.
Du Chaillu, Paul B. 1861. Explorations and adventures in Equatorial Africa. John Murray, London.
Grébert, F. (1922). Au Gabon : (Afrique équatoriale française). Paris: Soc. des Missions évangéliques.
Grébert, F., Savary C., and Perrois L. (2003). Le Gabon de Fernand Grébert : 1913-1932. Genève: Musée d’ethnographie.
Kingdon, Z. 2015. Subtracting the Narrative: Trade, Collecting, and Forgetting in the Kongo Coast Friction Zone during the Late Nineteenth Century’ published in the journal Museum Worlds: Advances in Research, 3, 18-36.
Laburthe-Tolra, P., Tessmann, G., Falgayrettes-Leveau C. (1991). Fang. Paris: Editions Dapper.
Marche, 1878. Voyage au Gabon et sur le fleuve Ogooué. Tour du Monde 36, 2, 369-416.
Perrois, L. & Sierra Delage, M. 1990. Art of Equatorial Guinea. Rizzola. New York, 177 pp.
Tessmann, G. 1913. Die Pangwe. Wasmuth, Berlin. 2 volumes.





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